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Setting out .. William, Matt, Heather and Dave.
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At the western end of Kawawaymog Lake, our first encounter with the wild was this Blue Heron. It was standing motionless until we came close.
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This is the start of the tortuous Amable du Fond River from Kawawaymog Lake to North Tea Lake.
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The river is approximately 15 feet wide and was lined with much interesting vegetation, including wild roses and lily pads in bloom.
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It was shallow in spots, requiring some probing by Matt at the bow of the canoe. However, it was totally navigable.
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Interestingly, the actual boundary of Algonquin Park (see the map) isn't reached until the end of the second portage at the western end of North Tea Lake. This historic boundary marker was erected to commemorate two rangers (F. X. Robichaud and T. Wattie) who lost their lives in this area.
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North Tea Lake lay ahead. Now it was just a matter of finding a camp site.
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We switched canoes for this leg of the trip. It was a windy evening on North Tea Lake. Not surprisingly, the Bernoulli effect was pronounced as we approached the southern tip of the large island. The effect was apparent again, through the narrow channel where the northern peninsula juts down into the lake and separates the west end from the east end. Ontario Parks officially refers to "west North Tea Lake" and "east North Tea Lake" when making site reservations.
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While, luckily the wind was at our backs, it was still a relief to find a site on a small bay on the leeward side of the peninsula. Compare this tranquil section of the lake with that in the last picture. It quickly became dark after we set up camp.
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The next morning, the site looked even more picturesque than the night before.
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It was a great place to cook a bacon and eggs breakfast.
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It was a beautiful sunny day when we set out on our second day.
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While leisurely paddling around a point on the south shore of east North Tea Lake, we noticed an animal in the distance. Initially taking it to be a beaver, we quickly realized it was a moose with only her head out of the water. As we approached, we could hear her chomping away on the lily pads. We drew up to about 75 feet away, hoping she would walk into the shallows. We finally paddled on, leaving her to her lunch.
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Three short portages from North Tea Lake to Biggar Lake, by way of Hornbeam Lake, lay ahead.
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Hornbeam Lake has a beautiful waterfall at its easterly end.
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Biggar Lake looked immense by comparison. The appearance of the sky over Biggar Lake reminded us of the TV cartoon "The Simpsons".
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We used a MSR MiniWorks® Ceramic Filter pump for the trip, often stopping to take a refreshment break.
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The campsite for our second night was also quite spacious.
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The highlight of Day 3 involved surviving a 2800m portage between Three Mile and Manitou Lakes. The portage is relatively flat and I estimate a good half to be along a logging road. The final 500m is a fairly steep descent to Manitou Lake. Two rest areas at the 1/3 and 2/3 points are designed to allow canoes to be supported. The Park staff had suggested taking our loop in the counterclockwise direction, in order to avoid having to climb up this steep hill.
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The 400m portage from Manitou Lake back to North Tea Lake was somewhat rough at the beginning, with the terrain being comprised of exposed tree roots and quite steep.
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This was another spacious site, well elevated from the water. It was located on the leeward side of an island in the northern arm of North Tea Lake.
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Our trip's final breakfast consisted of pancakes.
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It was overcast and rainy as we left our Algonquin hotel for the last night and headed west on North Tea Lake.
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The first "traffic jam" of the day occurred at this portage. Canoes were sitting in the lake like planes waiting their turn for the runway.
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The scenery on the Amable du Fond River was just as beautiful as before, but this time the wind and current were against us.
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Where the river opened upon Kawawaymog Lake, the wind and waves felt like a hurricane in our face ... the distinct opposite of three days earlier. We recalled the ranger briefly mentioning this before we'd set out. We also recalled how the incoming canoeists had been complaining about how strenuous their return paddle against the wind had been.
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After almost capsizing twice, we elected to abandon ship and walk along the shore. The water was warm and the bottom was very sandy. After walking more than half the distance, we were able to reboard our canoes and paddle to the access point.
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