Stephen Molson posted the following Catch-and-release Guidelines on the website forum back in 2009 ( www.network54.com/Forum/352882 ). They are certainly worth repeating here.

Maintaining a high percentage of catch/release is especially important with lakers/brookies due to their slow growing season, limited numbers, shrinking and sensitive habitat, increased fishing pressure, etc. Despite our best efforts though, there's always a percentage of released fish that don't survive, unfortunately a drawback to the sport (as it stands now). To help improve the survival odds here's a list of standard release techniques to employ:

1. Keep the fish in the water as much as possible and handle them gently.

2. Reduce handling that removes the slimy protective coating on fish.

3. Don't use any type of 'fish' glove - use bare hands.

4. Do not squeeze or touch the gills. Grasp the fish just behind the gill covers.

5. Do not put hands in or around eyes or inside their gill cover.

6. For panfish and smaller bass, it is best to grasp the fish by the lower lip.

7. On larger bass, a belly lift is the best lift that can be employed. The belly is literally cradled in the hand allowing for support to the fishs organs and reduces excessive pressure on the head and jaw of the fish.

8. Use forceps to remove the hook quickly without tearing or injuring the fish. If the fish is hooked deeply, cut the line and leave the hook in when the fish is released.

9. Never put a fish that you may release on a stringer, use a functional livewell or release the fish immediately.

10. Unless the fish is caught below the thermocline, bring the fish in as quickly as possible to reduce the risk of adrenaline build-up, which can be fatal. If the fish is caught below the thermocline, give the fish ample opportunity to adjust for the pressure changes when coming up (e.g. bring the fish in slowly) and release the fish as soon as possible.

11. Use a good quality net (cradle shape/rubberized mesh), as these help reduce the risk to yourself and fish should it begin to thrash about. It also allows one to subdue the fish easier and maintain it in the water to prevent drying and harming the coating.

A jaw spreader is only used on Northern Pikes and Muskies and when needed (e.g fish deeply hooked and/or she keeps her jaws tight). Keep constant pressure on the jaw spreader's two wire arms on the smaller northerns/muskie ( less than 3 pds) so it does not extend the jaws to the full extent (e.g. not too forceful which will reduce injury).

I never use the standard 'pliers' to remove the hook - in my opinion even needle-nose pliers are too thick, clunky and cumbersome for this function (e.g. tearing palate flesh, causing tissue damage/blocking view). I use one of the two pairs of surgical forceps (depending on fish size and hook location), available from many fishing/outfitters stores now (or, like those shown, a medical supplies source).

The rubberized landing net is new for me and will be used as conditions/fish species dictate. Otherwise a wet hand(s) is all I used in the past from the canoe for cradling, immobilizing, handling fish. Nylon/Cotton nets should not be used, irregardless of whether they are knotless or not (abrasive and hook-snagging respectively).